Stepping into Fes is like stepping back a thousand years. As the oldest of Morocco’s four imperial cities, Fes is the country’s spiritual and cultural heart. Its medina, Fes el-Bali, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the world’s largest car-free urban area—a dizzying labyrinth of over 9,000 alleys where donkeys still carry goods and the air is thick with the scent of spices, cedarwood, and history. In 2026, Fes remains an essential stop for any traveler seeking the soul of Morocco, blending its medieval heritage with a growing scene of boutique riads and intellectual hubs.
Table of Contents
- Why Visit Fes?
- A Journey Through Time: The History of Fes
- Best Time to Visit & Seasonal Advice
- How to Get to Fes: Transportation Guide
- Where to Stay: Neighborhood & Accommodation Guide
- Top 15 Things to Do in Fes
- Hidden Gems & Authentic Experiences
- Savoring Fes: Food & Local Specialties
- Practical Logistics: SIMs, Money & Safety
- Sample 3-Day Master Itinerary
- Frequently Asked Questions
Why Visit Fes?
Fes is raw, authentic, and unapologetically traditional. While Marrakech has become a polished global hub, Fes retains a gritty, ancient charm. It is home to the world’s oldest university, some of the most intricate Islamic architecture on the planet, and a craft tradition that has remained unchanged for centuries. If you want to experience the “real” Morocco, Fes is where you find it. In 2026, the city is also emerging as a center for sustainable tourism, with many riads focusing on heritage preservation and local community support.
A Journey Through Time: The History of Fes
Founded in 789 AD by Idris I, Fes became a major center of learning and commerce during the Golden Age of Islam. It served as the capital of Morocco multiple times and was a melting pot of Arab, Berber, Jewish, and Andalusian cultures. This diverse heritage is reflected in the city’s unique architecture, music, and culinary traditions. The city is divided into three distinct parts: Fes el Bali (the 8th-century old city), Fes el Jdid (the 13th-century “new” city), and the Ville Nouvelle (the French-built modern quarter).
Best Time to Visit & Seasonal Advice
The ideal times to visit Fes are Spring (April to June) and Autumn (September to November). The weather is pleasant for walking the medina.
- Spring (April-June): Mild temperatures (20-25°C) and blooming gardens. Perfect for day trips to Volubilis.
- Summer (July-August): Intensely hot, often exceeding 40°C. The narrow alleys of the Medina provide some shade, but outdoor activity is limited.
- Autumn (September-November): Warm days and cool evenings. The best light for photography.
- Winter (December-March): Sunny days but freezing nights. Many traditional riads can be drafty, so ensure your accommodation has heating.
How to Get to Fes: Transportation Guide
- By Air: Fes-Saïss Airport (FEZ) is 15km from the center. A taxi to the Medina costs a flat rate of 150 MAD ($15).
- By Train: The ONCF train network connects Fes to Casablanca (4h), Rabat (3h), and Marrakech (7h). The station is in the Ville Nouvelle.
- By Bus: CTM is the most reliable bus company, with a dedicated terminal near the train station.
- Getting Around: The Medina is entirely car-free. Use Petit Taxis (Red) for trips between the Medina and Ville Nouvelle. Always insist on the meter (compteur).
Where to Stay: Neighborhood & Accommodation Guide
Choosing the right area is crucial for your Fes experience:
- Fes el Bali (The Medina): Best for Couples & Authenticity. Stay in a traditional riad to be in the heart of the history. Recommendation: Riad Laaroussa.
- Fes el Jdid: Best for History Buffs. Home to the Royal Palace and the Mellah (Jewish Quarter). Quieter than the main Medina.
- Ville Nouvelle: Best for Digital Nomads & Business. Modern hotels, fast internet, and proximity to the train station. Recommendation: Hotel Sahrai.
- Batha: Best for First-Timers. Located at the edge of the Medina, offering easy taxi access while still being steps away from the souks.
Top 15 Things to Do in Fes
1. Get Lost in Fes el-Bali
The ancient medina is the star of the show. Don’t fight the confusion; embrace it. Every turn reveals a hidden fountain, a bustling souk, or a quiet residential courtyard. Local Insight: Look for the small “Derbs” (dead-end alleys) to see the most beautiful residential doorways.
2. Marvel at Al Quaraouiyine University
Founded in 859 AD by Fatima al-Fihri, this is recognized as the oldest continuously operating university in the world. While non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall, you can glimpse the stunning courtyard through the open doors. The library, recently restored, is a masterpiece of preservation.
3. Visit the Bou Inania Madrasa
One of the few religious sites in Morocco open to non-Muslims, this 14th-century madrasa is a masterpiece of Marinid architecture, featuring exquisite zellij tilework, carved plaster, and cedarwood.
4. Witness the Chouara Tanneries
The most iconic sight in Fes. Watch from a leather shop balcony as workers dye skins in giant stone vats using techniques that haven’t changed since the medieval era. (Pro tip: Take the sprig of mint offered at the door to mask the smell!)
5. Admire the Royal Palace Gates (Dar al-Makhzen)
While you can’t go inside the palace, the seven massive golden doors are a sight to behold and a favorite spot for photography. They represent the seven days of the week and the seven levels of the monarchy.
6. Explore the Mellah (Jewish Quarter)
Fes has a deep Jewish history. Visit the Aben Danan Synagogue and the Jewish Cemetery to see a different side of the city’s architectural heritage, characterized by balconies facing the street.
7. View the City from Borj Nord
For the best panoramic view of the medina, head to this 16th-century fort at sunset. It also houses an impressive arms museum. The nearby Merenid Tombs offer an even higher vantage point.
8. Shop in the Souks
From the Henna Souk to the spice markets, Fes is a shopper’s paradise. Look for high-quality leather goods, ceramics (Fes blue), and hand-woven textiles. Haggling Tip: Start at 50% of the initial price and keep it friendly.
9. Visit the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts & Crafts
Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century funduq (inn), this museum showcases the incredible skill of Moroccan woodworkers. The rooftop cafe offers great views of the square below.
10. Relax in Jnan Sbil Gardens
Escape the medina’s chaos in these lush, peaceful gardens located between Fes el-Bali and Fes el-Jdid. It’s the perfect spot for a quiet stroll among fountains and exotic plants.
11. Take a Moroccan Cooking Class
Learn to make Fassi specialties like Pastilla (a sweet and savory pigeon or chicken pie) or traditional couscous. Recommendation: Cafe Clock.
12. Visit the Al-Attarine Madrasa
Located near the spice market, this madrasa is smaller than Bou Inania but equally stunning in its detail. The central courtyard is a masterclass in Islamic geometry.
13. Experience a Traditional Hammam
For an authentic experience, visit a local neighborhood hammam like Hammam Mernissi, or opt for a luxury spa version in a high-end riad.
14. Walk through Bab Boujloud (The Blue Gate)
The main entrance to the medina. It’s blue on the outside (the color of Fes) and green on the inside (the color of Islam). The area around the gate is packed with lively cafes.
15. Day Trip to Volubilis and Moulay Idriss
Just an hour away, you can explore the best-preserved Roman ruins in Morocco and the holy town of Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, perched dramatically on a hillside.
Hidden Gems & Authentic Experiences
- The Rainbow Street: A vibrant, art-filled alleyway in the Medina that most tourists miss.
- Fondouk el-Najjarine: Beyond the museum, explore the surrounding workshops to see artisans carving cedarwood in real-time.
- Glaoui Palace: A crumbling but magnificent palace that offers a haunting look at the city’s former aristocratic life.
- Kairouine Library: One of the oldest libraries in the world, now open to visitors after a massive restoration.
Savoring Fes: Food & Local Specialties
Fes is the culinary capital of Morocco, known for its sophisticated use of spices and dried fruits.
- Fassi Pastilla: The city’s signature dish—a flaky pastry filled with pigeon (or chicken), almonds, and dusted with cinnamon and sugar.
- Khlii: Preserved meat, a Fes specialty, often served with eggs for breakfast.
- Bissara: A thick fava bean soup topped with olive oil and cumin, perfect for a winter morning.
- Mint Tea: The “Moroccan Whiskey,” served with a dramatic high pour.
Practical Logistics: SIMs, Money & Safety
| Service | Recommendation | Details |
|---|---|---|
| SIM Cards | Maroc Telecom or Inwi | Available at the airport or kiosks. 10GB for approx. 100 MAD ($10). |
| ATMs | BMCE or Attijariwafa | Plentiful in Ville Nouvelle and near Bab Boujloud. Hard to find deep in the Medina. |
| Emergency | Police: 19 / Ambulance: 15 | Keep these numbers saved. Most riad staff speak English and French. |
| Currency | Moroccan Dirham (MAD) | Cash is king in the Medina; cards accepted in modern hotels and shops. |
Safety & Scams: Fes is generally safe, but be wary of “faux guides” who offer unsolicited tours. A polite but firm “No, thank you” (or “La, shukran”) usually works. Avoid walking alone in unlit parts of the Medina late at night.
Sample 3-Day Master Itinerary
Day 1: The Medieval Heart
Morning: Bab Boujloud and Bou Inania Madrasa. Lunch: Traditional tagine in the Medina. Afternoon: Chouara Tanneries and Al Quaraouiyine. Evening: Sunset at Borj Nord.
Day 2: Culture & Craft
Morning: Royal Palace gates and the Mellah. Lunch: Cafe Clock. Afternoon: Nejjarine Museum and shopping in the souks. Evening: Traditional Hammam experience.
Day 3: Beyond the Walls
Morning: Day trip to Volubilis and Moulay Idriss. Afternoon: Relax in Jnan Sbil Gardens. Evening: Farewell dinner at a fine-dining riad.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Fes safe for solo travelers? Yes, but stay alert in the Medina at night and dress modestly to respect local customs.
How many days do I need? 3 days is ideal to see the main highlights and take a day trip to Volubilis.
Can I visit the tanneries without a guide? Yes, but a guide can help you navigate the maze and explain the process.
Conclusion
Fes is a sensory explosion that challenges and rewards in equal measure. It is a city that demands your attention and rewards your curiosity with glimpses into a world that time forgot. Whether you’re wandering the blue-tiled alleys or sipping tea overlooking the tanneries, Fes will leave an indelible mark on your soul. Ready to explore more? Check out our Marrakech Guide, our Chefchaouen Guide, or plan your desert adventure with our Sahara Desert Guide.